Thursday, September 13, 2012

Day 46 El Questro

Yes folks, it was light at 5am. As the tent heats up by 8am, we had an early start.

We swam in Zebedee Springs with snorkels and masks for most of the morning. The only live things we saw were large tadpoles, which I hope won't turn into cane toads. It is ridiculously picturesque here. The lady in the photo three below found our car keys in the springs. Justin had put them in a mask which George got for him. Not seeing the keys, she flung them accidentally into the water somewhere, luckily the lady spotted them. Here's hoping they dry out....

 

El Questro is one million acres. Will Burrell and Celia Shermeldine bought this, aged 23, I think in 1990 thereabouts, for one million dollars. At one dollar a acre, it seems like a bargain, but it was a lot to take on as the place was neglected. They kept the cattle going and ramped up the tourism on the property. They sold to and American group six years ago and moved to Melbourne. From our payment receipts, we worked out the same group owns Kings Canyon and Ayers Rock Resort.

From Zebedee Springs we headed north to Wyndam. Its major claim to fame is that in 1933 Charles Kingsford Smith landed here after flying his plane from England, and it is WA's oldest town.

 

On a Saturday afternoon this place, on the Cambridge Gulf, has the desolate feeling typical of remote country towns. Property prices don't seem to reflect this however, as a slightly rundown guesthouse and residence, admittedly on the waterfront at the port but without a view, was for sale for $480,000. They were saving on Agent's fees by hand painting the price and contact mobile number on a piece of corrugated iron. For me, this town's saving grace is the stunning Five Rivers Lookout from The Bastion, a rocky hill behind the port area of Wyndam. The views are below.

 

The mangrove swamps go so far inland because the tides are so big.

We tried to go to the crocodile farm but it closed at 2pm. We aren't sure what he sold, but Rob's Place is closed, FULL STOP. Gorgeous Boab trees line the main drag.

 

In Wyndam proper is The Big Croc.

 

We had a little trouble finding the turn off to the Prison Boab Tree, don't follow the mud map on the outskirts of Wyndam if you visit here. Off the same road was an Aboriginal art site I wanted to look at. At a billabong we passed we saw a group of brolgas, a very exciting thing. We went all through the NT without seeing one, despite it being in the below image, synonymous with the territory since the 1980's. Justin loved the honking noise they made warning each other that we were present.

 

The rock paintings were minimal, and it looked like a lot of it was ruined by the weather.

 

We rushed off to catch the Prison Boab tree before the sun set. Tim Burton would love this tree, as we all did. This is an amazing example of an unusual tree. I'm not sure how it is now meant to store water in its trunk with the window through to the hollow middle. These trees often grow multiple trunks that twist around each other.

 

The road there and back follows the King River, and is between this and the Moochoolara Dam. Below is the natural spillway from the dam to the river.

 

We were home late, we put the girls to bed then snuck off for a really nice BBQ meal at The Store.

 

2 comments:

  1. Hi Schumack's,
    Ready to continue the trip.How many George's was the big crock in length?
    We are about to start school holidays here>

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    Replies
    1. Consider meeting us in Broome! It is glorious. The croc was about 30 George's in length.

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